Martina Gebhardt Skincare Q&A

WHAT IS MARTINA'S CRITERIA FOR QUALITY?

1) Martina uses only 100 percent natural raw materials
2) She does not use synthetic raw materials like soloring substances and fragrance, preservatives, emulsifiers, sun protection filters (no titanium oxide, for example) paraffin or tensides
3) No raw materials for which animals are tortured, tested or killed
4) Almost all raw materials (and not only herbs) are obtained from "certified organic growers" or
5) They use spagyric essences from their own production
6) They apply rhythmic, biologic-dynamic principles in their production
7) They use environmentally "sensible" glass containers and no aluminum or plastic tubes.
8) Member of BDIH

WHAT IS BDIH?

BDIH - Using natural cosmetics is one of the many ways in which MG can apply a complete understanding of nature to the everyday objects they use - and at the same time behave responsibly in relation to our environment.  To this end, MG is proud to be affiliated to BDIH, having fulfilled all the requirements contained in their 'Standards Guideline' and allegeable to carry their trade-mark. An independent control body from Europe ensures that the quality seal criteria are fully complied with.

BDIH stands for Bundesverband Deutscher Industrie- und Handelsunternehmen (Federation of Germany Industries and Trading Firms) for pharmaceuticals, health care goods, food supplements and personal hygiene products, registered association.

In order for MG to be affiliated with BDIH, they have to meet strict criteria standards in order to term our products "natural cosmetics". Some of theses standards include :

- Take into account users' expectations with regards to safe and ecological products.
- Definite standards how raw cosmetic products should be extracted and/or created and how they should be processed.
- When raw products for cosmetics are extracted, measures are taken to ensure that damage to nature is minimized and that no living things are killed, particular attention is paid to the protection of animals and species.
- Interference in the genetic make-up of plants through genetic engineering is rejected.
- Raw materials should be produced in such a way as to protect the environment and minimize the use of chemical processes.
- Packaging should be both economical and environmentally friendly.
- It is forbidden to disinfect organic raw materials and completed cosmetic products using radioactive radiation.

The reason natural raw materials are preferred is their ecological superiority, particularly when they are obtained through controlled cultivation or other responsible means of using natural resources. Moreover, natural substances have evolved alongside mankind, which means that the potential toxicological risk is low. Products containing raw materials which are insufficiently transparent, are not given the certification trademark.

IS MARTINA GEBHARDT PRODUCTS SULFITE FREE?

Yes they are.

HOW DOES MARTINA GEBHARDT PRESERVE HER PRODUCTS?

At Martina's production facility, there are only natural preservatives in action. Glass containers are sterilized in a sterilized environment much like a hospital. Then each formula has its own essential oils and oil component that will naturally preserve the product - they have an anti-microbial effect. Nothing can grow until you open it. This leads to the next step. Since there are NO synthetic preservatives in Martina's products, lotions and cleansers benefit further from the use of pumps as "technical" protectors, since the pump will not allow air or bacteria back into the container, as it rests in your home. This is unlike aluminum tubes, which can be easily contaminated. We also advice keeping them in a cool air and out of the sun.

WHAT IS THE SHELF LIFE OF THESE PRODUCTS?

The shelf life is approximately 1 1/2 years. But sometimes I see products go off sooner.  So keep them stored in a cool place and use them completely up.

WHY DOES SHE USE LANOLIN OR (WOOLWAX)?

Lanolin or wool wax as Martina calls it, is a proven ingredient with hundreds of years of use. It seems that with the invention of synthetic paraffins and glycerine in the 1960's that lanolin went out of fashion in cosmetics. But it much more beneficial for the skin than even vegetable glycerine.

IS IT SAFE TO USE LANOLIN (WOOLWAX) DUE TO INSECTICIDES AND CHEMICAL DE-WORMING PASTES?

Martina has gone to great care to contract for the lanolin manufactured from the wool of free range sheep raised in the wilds of New Zealand. The sheep in her lanolin project live a happy life on an uninhabited island, where they are never treated with insecticides or chemical de-worming pastes! They are carefully shorn once a year, and the wool is washed with an organic wool wash to extract the "wax." They believe that all animals have the right to live free and be treated with care and respect, and are proud to support this project. It is also noteworthy to add, that in Germany, to say lanolin could refer to a product which has paraffin added, up to 13% without disclosure. But Martina's has none. We certainly think the US has something to learn here.

MARTINA USES A LOT OF ALCOHOLS IN HER PRODUCT. IS THIS SAFE FOR THE SKIN AND IS IT DIFFERENT?

All these alcohols used are distilled from fruits. They are non-denatured ingredients, and retain the energy of the fruit from which they came. The term pure, or genuine ethyl alcohol refer to the same ingredient, as does the term 'spirit of wine.'

DOES MARTINA GEBHARDT USE ANIMAL TESTING?

Martina has always believed that all creatures have the right to live a happy life. For this reason there are no substances used in any of the products for which animals are tested, tortured or killed. The special "Bunny" logo on the product certifies that MG is opposed to animal testing in any form, and gives our membership number in the International Society that sets standards and monitors animal testing.

WHAT IS THE FLOWER LOGO AND DEMETER SYMBOLS ON HER LABEL?

The flower logo that appears on her stationary, products and literature indicates that the company is a member in the Demeter Association. It is this association that monitors all producers of Demeter certified agricultural products. Demeter standards include the principles of organic farming and take them further to encompass the bio-dynamic principles as outlined by Rudolf Steiner. This method of growing honors the rhythmic cycles of nature and promotes the production of higher quality fruits, herbs and vegetables that are used in their products. Primavera Life Essential oils are of this same quality.

IS MARTINA'S LINE A WATER BASE OR OIL BASE LINE?

Martina's line is not a water based product, it is an oil base. The better skincare lines are always oil based. Microbs have a hard time growing in an oily medium as well. This is not the only reason she is using an oil based formula, its just better for the skin. See next question.

ARE MARTINA'S PRODUCTS HARD TO ABSORB WITH SO MANY PLANT OILS SHE USES?

Martina's Cremes are formulated with a higher content of rich moisturizers, such as shea butter, lanolin, beeswax and organically grown oils. The oils of these ingredients interact with the hyro-lipid coat to nourish the skin, reduce fine lines and plum up the cells. These rich cremes, a bit slower to absorb, also give your skin the additional benefit from the gentle massage that can increase circulation. As the creme connects with the cells in the hydrolipid coat, it enriches the skin with delicious moisture from pure, organic sources.

WHY AREN'T THERE MORE AGGRESSIVE INGREDIENTS IN HER LINE?

Ingredients like hylauronic acid, which is a synthetic pseudo-estrogen, can cause allergies. The hormone like substances pass through the skin membrane rather aggressively. Another controversial ingredient are the new liposomes of soy extracts made into tiny pills the size of a nanometer that enable these molecules to pass easily through the skin membrane. This molecular action takes not only the fats, but all kinds of other ingredients from the formula INTO the skin and blood stream. Educated consumers will want the facts to make a conscious choice before they use a commercial cosmetic that is specifically designed to aggressively penetrate their skin and pull preservatives or fragrances directly into the blood vessels. Our skincare lines use some ingenious organically grown and wild crafted ingredients so that the products get visible results on all types of skin. These herbal ingredients have a long history of use, and though no claims can be made, are highly effective components. Other herbal ingredients that put moisture in the skin and relax the skin are: sage, ginseng, hops, fennel, clover, calendula. OE products use beta glutan, MSM and ceremids from plants to aid skin balance.

WHAT DOES THE TERM GENUINE ESSENTIAL ROSE OR OTHER OIL MEAN? AREN'T ALL THE OILS SHE USES PURE?

This term appears on Martina's labels as a particular designation that this is an oil which has not been processed further after distillation from it's original plant matter. It is common practice, even in natural cosmetics, to standardize oils by adding or removing ingredients so that the essential oil always smells the same in the formula. The organically grown oils in Martina's products are the native, pure essential oils without subtracting or adding any other fragrance components. All our companies share this policy. You can rest assured that any skincare your purchase will be using genuine essential oils.

WHY DO HER LABELS MENTION ESSENTIAL OILS BUT DO NOT LIST THEM EXACTLY?

In a formula where there are five or more essential oils blended together for a special signature scent, the labels say only 'essential oils.' This formula is proprietary, and is withheld so that it cannot be copied. All oils used in the proprietary blends are genuine, pure essential oils as described above.

WHAT IS SIGNIFICANT ABOUT CONTROLLED ORGANIC FARMERS?

Controlled means certified, to distinguish the growers during a time when it was possible to say organic - when it wasn't. All ingredients that are organic have a certification paper trail to validate their status.

WHAT IS THIS SPAGYRIC METHOD SHE REFERS TO IN HER BROCHURE?

Spagyric (spah-geer-ik) refers to a very old system of production that promotes healing by balancing the 5 elements of the body: air, fire, water, earth and ether. The most famous advocate of the spagyric tradition lived in the 15th century and went down in history as Theophrastus Bombastus of Hohenheim, better known as Paracelsus. The polarity of our habitat means that both plus and minus forces are contained in the plants, i.e. both beneficial and destructive energy. This fact is best expressed in the Yin and Yang signs familiar in Asian philosophy. Each organism contains the Yin and Yang forces, plus and minus, i.e. the forces from both poles. Spagyric essences are created by using all the parts of the plants: flower, stems, leaves, fruits, and roots to produce special extracts. These extracts are then used in minute dilutions to potentize the effects of the herbs, and added to the cosmetics.

The Greek word spagyria contains the two concepts of divide and combine. Usual brews or tinctures only take part of the plant’s powers. A new approach to nature and its effect is needed to understand the alchemical purification process and associated "power enhancement". Accordingly, if the pure is separated from the impure, the fine from the rough and the spiritual from the material, this essence provides us with a natural aid which has been enhanced a thousand times and is unique in its effect. Spagyric processing is practised according to the following system: separation , purification, reunification (cohobation).

Martina's spagyric process involves fermentation, distillation and evaporative proprietary methods to get the highly bio-active mineral ingredients that contribute to make Martina's formulas highly effective and unique.

CAN YOU EXPLAIN THIS SPAGYRIC FERMENTATION PROCESS BETTER?

This is a very costly and work-intensive process; purified plant leaves are pulverised and fermented by adding a special yeast. This alcoholic brew is distilled and the residue dried and incinerated. The ashes are then added to the distillate again and, after dissolving the mineral salts, filtered. After a maturing process of four weeks this essence can be potentiated again. Only healthy organically grown plants are used for processing just as only pure spring water is used to dissolve the ashes. Another point worth mentioning in conclusion is that in preparing (harvesting and processing) these spagyric essences, the influences of the planets and cosmic rhythm (moon phase) are used to attain the optimum result.

WHAT WOULD YOU SUGGEST FOR ROSEACEA?

It depends on the person. Everyone is different and reacts different.  Roseacea is overreactive.  You would need something calming. Rose (except the toner), Shea Butter and Lemon Balm (special order) Cream would be an option.  Camelia Seed oil, Evening Primrose Seed oil is another option.  Those are special order items as well.

• gently support the skin’s natural functions and regenerative healing forces.
• protect the integrity of the skin’s natural eco-system.
• soothe, moisturize, and lubricate skin that is dry, sensitive and irritable.
• purify and balance oily skin conditions.
• protect from premature aging skin.
• maintain and encourage firm, vibrant, beautiful, and healthy complexion.
• shield from the environmental elements.
• strengthen the skin’s resilience and self-healing ability.
• aid in revitalizing and rejuvenating the skin. 

HOW DO YOU USE MARTINA GEBHARDT SKINCARE?

Although a program for specific skin types is offered, Martina Gebhardt suggests that you experiment to find the right blend for your skin type.

You can interchange products from various skin care systems. For example you can use the Ginseng Cream or Ginseng Lotion (refreshing invirgorating effect) in the morning and the Rose Skin Care products (more calming and harmonizing) in the evening.

As a general rule, Martina Gebhardt suggests applying skin care products sparingly. A tiny amount goes a long way. An excess of creams and lotions can actually inhibit the skin’s own functions

For normal, younger skin, it is sufficient to use only a facial cleanser at night. Our facial cleanser contain pure, high-grade plant oils and provides enough oil to protect your skin overnight, still leaving your skin able to breathe. This way, perspiration and impurities reach the skin’s surface without obstruction.  If your skin type requires a somewhat richer treatment, our lotions or creams provide excellent night protection. 

Skin tonics are an important part of your daily skin routine. Our skin tonics are made with Spagyric Essences and offer important water-soluble nutrients that are not available in creams or lotions. Therefore, we suggest you use the skin tonics regularly after cleansing. Infact, you can apply tonics several times each day to refresh and revitalize your skin. 

Consider your skin condition, the local air quality, and the seasons when selecting a lotion or cream. In the summer, we suggest using facial lotions; for the winter months we suggest using creams. The facial lotion is also perfectly suited as a makeup base. Alternatively, the creams can be applied as a facial mask to feed the skin with more concentrated nutrients.  

You can adjust the moisture content to suit your individual needs. To obtain the perfect amount of moisture for your skin type, you can thin the cream by mixing in a little of the corresponding lotion before applying.  

Our specialty creams, facial masks, and facial seed oils can be combined with any of our other products. 

Change skin care products periodically to ensure that your skin receives a broad range of nutrients. 

Caution: 

Our products are formulated without any harsh or irritating synthetic or petroleum based ingredients and are therefore very gentle by nature. However, we have to keep in mind that it is possible to develop allergies or sensitivities to any substance on earth - including natural Substances. Therefore, if you have allergy-prone or highly sensitive skin always carefully review ingredient list and patch test before applying any skin care products. Consult with your hoilistic health or beauty professional for guidance as needed.

CHOOSING YOUR SKIN PRODUCTS

Rose	***	*	**	***	**	**	**	2 - 3
Sage	-	***	**	-	-	***	***	2 - 3
Ginseng	***	**	***	**	*	**	**	3 - 5
Shea Butter	***	**	*	***	***	***	***	2 - 3

*** best suited, ** appropriate, * not specifically developed for this skin type but possible, - not suited

DESCRIPTION OF DIFFERENT SKINCARE SERIES

SHEA BUTTER SERIES

All Sheabutter products are free of essential oils, alcohol, herbal extracts and bee products. They do not contain any preservatives, surfactants, synthetic or nature-identical raw materials, paraffin waxes or synthetic fragrances as is the case with all our products. Sheabutter products are therefore totally free of any substances that may irritate allergy-prone individuals. Sheabutter skin care products contain the very minimum of ingredients, using only those substances that are absolutely non-irritating.

SAGE SERIES

Sage skin care products purify the skin and have astringent effects. They help regulate the activity of sebaceous, oil-producing glands in the skin and restore the natural protective skin layer.

GINSENG SERIES

Ginseng skin care products contain many vitamins and structural substances that help maintain the vitality, elasticity and regenerative capacity of mature skin over 30 years of age.

ROSE SERIES

The rose skin care system has soothing, smoothing, moisturizing and harmonizing effects for your skin and prevents premature wrinkling.

APPLICATION

In the morning: apply the facial water after cleansing in order to refresh and vitalize the skin. Tap well to stimulate the skin's blood circulation.

Next, the cream is massaged into the slightly moist skin. You only need a small amount. If you prefer cream with a lighter consistency, combine a pea-sized drop of the cream with one drop of lotion on your hand, rub together and apply the mixture to the skin.

In the evening, you only need the fat-replenishing cleansing lotion to sufficiently protect the skin through the night. At night, the skin should be able to "breathe" which means: sweat and waste products can reach the surface of the skin unhindered. This way, your skin remains healthy and recovers its natural balance.